Crossing the Yamuna; minding the thief in the burqa

Beyond, through a line of arches, down a flight of steps, we could just see the black ooze of the Jumna in its very darkest incarnation. The closer we came, the flithier it looked: a black swathe of suspended mud as heavy and sluggish as crude oil. But beauty and sanctity lie in the eyes of the beholder and the believer.
William Dalrymple, City of Djinns

During the week I took the afternoon off to go with my friend Tasneem to check out the markets in Seelampur. Two of the roughest areas in Delhi are supposed to be Seelampur and Jahangipuri and Sahara has projects in both of them. In Seelampur there is a drop in centre for injecting drug users in the area. It's funded by the Elton John AIDS Foundation.
Seelampur is in East Delhi on either side of the river Yamuna (also known as the Jumna), the river that continues its winding course to Agra behind the Taj and beyond to the Ganges. It can seem a measly filthy river compared to that illustrious Ganga. The Yumana is in many ways 'the tracks' that Seelampur is on the wrong side of. The area is of little consequence to most people in Delhi but its actually a fascinating place.

Like many of the most concentrated areas in the city, Seelampur has mostly Muslim population. We happened to be in the area on Thursday which is market day for most Muslim Women. They were allowed out of the house! Hurrah, but it turned out to be a crazy mad scene. We were told to watch out for pickpockets. Even women in burqas were apparently suspect. I'm happy to report that while I got a little squished my valuables survived. It was also worth it to see these:

Typical that even in the most conservative area where the normal appropriate attire for a lady is a large sack covering every body surface, the intimate articles are thus displayed.
















Even at five the tartan romper boy always had a way with the chicks.

Not the most desirable piece of prime real estate in New Seelampur.
















I like this photo, it reminds me of this painting by Vermeer:

I think the small child at the top of the ladder is most likely a ghost.
















We realized we were in the wrong market in New Seelampur so we crossed the Yumana again to Old Seelampur to find the proper fabric market. It is where the high quality fabrics are sorted and sold for eventual export and sale at high prices. Here though they're dirt cheap and you can pick up scraps of extra cloth for next to nothing if you're willing to sort through the piles. Tasneem was designing some dresses so she was in fashion designer heaven.

The sun was setting and Seelampur for all its charms isn't really somewhere you want to find yourself stuck after dark. So we hauled arse back to the metro (btw Delhi has an excellent Metro) But we'll be back soon.

The needle probes for the artery;
Enemies of poetry gather in your city.

Your Town is cursed with power;
Roses flow in this stream of blood;
The waters of your Yumana stand exposed.

Namdeo Dhasal